1) Keisei Station and Police Box: If you are coming from the airport, you'll arrive at the Keisei Skyliner Ueno Station. Exit the station from the Shinobazu Exit, and it's just a quick walk to the left to a police box, where you can orient your map to one on the wall and get some information, though they don't speak much English. It's also near a cool statue where street events sometimes happen (I was there during Autumn Equinox).

2) Ryokan Katsutaro: This is where I've stayed and it has a good balance between Asian vibe and western-style convenience. Our room had shoji screens, tatami mats and our own bath, with a western toilet in the (very) small water closet. Watch out for low ceiling beams. Across the street is a convenience store for your snacking needs. If I remember right, they have booze too. On the way to the busier area are Shinobazu Pond and several shrines, all worth taking the time to see.

3) McDonald's: It's a good landmark, since it stands out as one of the only Western businesses in the area, as well as being on the corner that leads back to the Ryokan from the busier areas so you know you're going the right way. Take the opportunity to get a jumbo (about 1L) Qoo. Between here and the Ryokan are several restaurants (good prawns), gaming places and theatres.

4) ABAB: A seven or eight story building with various shops inclusing an HMV and UNIQLO, both well worth checking out for CDs, DVDs and wacky Japanese t-shirts. There are also a few floors of vending stalls with small businesses that have jewellery, accessories, makeup etc.

5) Beard Papa's Pipin' Hot Cream Puffs: At the corner of the ABAB building is Beard Papa's. It's a bit pricey, but so is everything else, and they are made fresh.

6) St. Marc Cafe: The westerner's breakfast of choice, St. Marc is located around the corner from Beard Papa's in a side alley (no worries - it's paved and safe) they have great croissants, egg and cheese buns and all kinds of other baked goods, as well as coffee and tea. If you want something cool to drink (I recommend Qoo or Aquarius), there are lots of vending machines right across the alley. This alley also leads to the Ameyayokocho market, which is well worth checking out for toys, housewares, karaoke and food stalls.

7) 7-11 and Italian Restaurant: The best place for Japanese magazines in the area and some candy that you won't find in the corner store across from the Ryokan. I'm also pretty sure this is the building with the great pizza place on one of the higher floors - look at the outside corner for an elevator with pictures of what's on each floor. If it isn't here, it's one block further from the police box. It's worth checking out for the great thin crust pizza, the view, and the computerized toilets.

8) Camera Stores: As you make your way from ABAB around the corner toward the main Ueno subway station, you'll pass a bunch of camera and electronics shops playing Christian folk songs with secular Japanese lyrics. These places aren't bad, but Akihabara has better prices.

9) Yamashiroya: Across from the Ueno station is this tall, skinny toy store. Lots of collectibles like Kubrick figures, Gundam etc. can be found here. Near here are a few noodle shops and another entrance to the market.

10) Video Arcade: Just inside the market from Yamashiroya is a decent arcade on the right side if you want to try the latest games that will probably never make it over here.

Here's a street view of the Post Office near Sawanoya Ryokan where the ATM takes foreign bank cards - you can see the Ryokan marked on the map in the corner.

This is my favourite corner store near Sawanoya Ryokan (Ryokan Katsutaro has one across the street) - see those stacks of boxes? They're all full of 2L bottles of Qoo!